February 29, 2012 - New shave, new author

Hi, Mom! I'm writing a blog all the way from Nepal and I promised my dad that I would say "hi mom" whenever I made it big...

Libby and I had quite the adventure today, trekking all the way to Durbar Square Kathmandu, and running a couple of errands for Cheryl. But one of the major highlights happened on my own errand. Having diligently remembered to pack my razor (Libby doesn't like to have anything to do with me when I'm not relatively clean shaven), I was dismayed to find that it had no charge upon arrival... I can only hope some customs folks somewhere got some good use out of it. Like I tell everyone that doesn't know me very well, I really wanted to shave because it was getting itchy - nothing at all to do with Libby's preferences.

So, I asked the guy playing on his phone at a "beauty saloon" in Thamel the price of a straight-razor shave. At 80 rupees (~$1), I didn't even have the heart to negotiate. I sat down and said, "Have at it!" He offered Libby the seat next to me to photograph, and little did either of us know what we were getting into. The lathering was expected. I've watched my purposefully-bald friend shave a few times, and I was delighted to know that the barber here had a horse hair tool for the job. I was even more pleased when he unwrapped a fresh, new razor. So far, so good.

He proceeded to pinch my face here or there to draw it taught and get nice smooth strokes. He made me bleed a little when he went over a couple pimples, which he tried to explain to me that he was sorry for. No problem. He even lathered me up again and gave everywhere a second pass. Great! I started to get up, and he asked me if I'd like "cleansing?" It took me a couple of times before I realized what he was asking, but how could I turn the guy down? Sure, the streets of Nepal can leave you feeling a little less than fresh, and I heard that there was some massage involved. I accepted readily. So readily, I guess, that he assumed I wanted The Works. This "barber", a.k.a masseuse, beautician mastermind, and chiropractor proceeded to do no less than the following laundry list of services:

Cleansing/Massage - After a quick spray in the face with the spray bottle of water, he massaged a white "facial cleansing milk" into my skin to the point of it becoming a paste. He then had to extract that paste with the use of string, and then several tissues, each of which he showed to both me and Libby so that we could appreciate the amount of dirt coming off of my face.

Max? No, mask. - Neither Libby nor I have ever had a facial before, but we think this was it. He applied this transparent, reddish mask all over my face, and only then asked if I had 10 minutes [to wait for it to harden]. Luckily, he sped up my wait time by fanning me/periodically whacking me in the face with a magazine. We think he was distracted my the random teenagers that came into the shop to spray themselves in the hair and face with his spray bottle. Anyway, after some time, he peeled off the mask and showed me the pore-cleansing holes that remained. I knew that I had received great service then, and started to get up. Not even close, Mike. He wrenched the spray bottle back from the teenagers and shoe-d them from the store so that he could continue with my treatment.

Mentholly paste - After applying another liberal spray with his trusty spray bottle, he stung my increasingly raw face with what smelled like icy hot. This also needed to be wiped clear and another spray from the bottle needed application.

Aftershave rock - I have no idea what this was but it smelled similar to my aftershave, and he kept dipping it in water, and believe it or not, it stung a little too. I don't even know what this purple thing was.

More spray bottle - This time the spray bottle got its own section because it was followed by a watery massage. Contrary to popular Nepali belief, water is not a lotion or lubricant, and I think that this portion of the treatment was meant to clear all of skin that had not been removed during the other phases.

Full upper body massage/joint cracking- Again not sure how my acceptance of his offer of "cleansing" led him to believe that I was interested, but after my face got several massages, I suppose he wanted to have the rest of me feeling refreshed as well. The scalp massage was awesome, and then he did some light patting on my head, which turned weird. Finally, he began to really thump on my noggin' and the back of my neck, and it turned into a shoulder massage. Next thing I knew, he had popped my neck in several different directions, all of my fingers, my back to both sides, and then my lower back, by having pulled both my arms behind my head yanking. A true miracle worker in the end, I just didn't have patience for such royal treatment.

This couldn't be just $1 for all this, could it? No... the price had jumped to 850 rupees, just over $10. Still not bad for a facial/massage/whatever the heck else. And Libby paid. So I got the heck out of there before he could pull another random bottle off of the shelf to harass me with.

February 28, 2012 - Happy day!!

Mike is here! Mike is here!! Mike is HERE!!!!!! =)

February 27, 2012 - The symphony after sunset...

After the sun goes down and the power is out, the streets of Patan and Kathmandu become very dark. One would think that it might make this time of night quite peaceful and quiet. Sadly, this is not the case. While there are fewer vehicles on the roads (and hence, fewer honking horns), the cacophony of dogs barking takes its place.

Everywhere you look, on every street and in every alley, is at least one stray dog.

This did not surprise me, as this has been the case in many other places that I have traveled. Dogs are rarely pets here in Nepal, but instead they call the streets their homes. While the dogs here are very peaceful, and I have yet to see one of them become aggressive, they become quite the annoyance at night.

It starts with one dog barking at something moving in the wind or someone walking home in the dark. This encourages the dogs in the surrounding few yards to start barking, which inspires more and more voices to join the unpleasant melody. Within a few seconds, it seems as though hundreds of dogs have taken up the call – and they are all within a few hundred meters of the initiating culprit.

Words really can’t do it justice. It is amazing how much noise they can make. It is a combination of barking, howling, yapping, and (at least it sounds like) screeching. I tried taking a video of the ruckus, but it just can’t seem to capture the essence of what goes on outside of my window at night. It makes me miss our neighbor’s annoying yappy dog back at home, because at least that’s just one dog instead of a hundred…

February 26, 2012 - Tibetan prayer flags

It’s difficult to look anywhere in Nepal and not see Tibetan prayer flags swaying in the wind. They are present at all Buddhist stupas, most public squares, and often seen proudly waving around many people’s homes.

I’m told they also line many of the trekking routes high in the Himalayas. I had actually seen a few of these flags back at home but really had no understanding of them or appreciation for what they stood for. After the past few weeks in Nepal, however, I have come to really enjoy the prayer flags and have found a peace and awe in watching the simple colored swatches of fabric dancing merrily in the wind.

Prayer flags originated in Tibet and are usually only used in Tibetan Buddhism. They are seen throughout Nepal, however, due to the strong prevalence of Tibetan Buddhists who fled to Nepal in the 1940-1950’s. Traditionally, prayer flags come in sets of five, one in each of five different colors, representing the elements.

The flags are arranged in a specific order from left to right: blue, white, red, green, and yellow. Blue symbolizes sky and space, white symbolizes air and wind, red symbolizes fire, green symbolizes water, and yellow symbolizes earth. It is felt that health and harmony are produced through the balance of these five elements.

There are two different types of prayer flags – horizontal and vertical.

Horizontal prayer flags are called lung ta, meaning “wind horse” in Tibetan. Vertical flags are called darchor. Dar means “to increase life, fortune, health, and wealth” and cho means “all sentient beings.” Lung ta prayer flags are smaller, square/rectangular cloth, which are connected edge-to-edge with thread and are hung in a diagonal line from high-to-low between two objects (such as from the top of a stupa to the bottom).

Darchor prayer flags are usually larger, single pieces of cloth attached to poles along their vertical edge.

The center of the prayer flag features a lung ta, a powerful or strong horse, carrying three flaming jewels on its back.

The horse is considered a symbol of speed and a representation of the transformation of bad fortune to good fortune. The three jewels represent the Buddha, the Dharma (Buddhist teachings), and the Sangha (Buddhist community). The four corners of the prayer flag contain images of four powerful animals, known as the four dignities – the dragon, the garuda, the tiger, and the snow lion.

Surrounding the lung ta are approximately 400 different mantras, each dedicated to a specific deity. In addition, the prayer flags often also include prayers for the long life and good fortune of the person who hangs the flags.

The prayer flags are used to promote peace, compassion, and wisdom. As opposed to common belief that the flags carry prayers to the gods, Tibetans believe that the prayers and mantras will be blown by the wind to spread goodwill and compassion to all surrounding space; therefore, the flags are felt to bring benefit to all. It is thought that by hanging the flags in high places, the lung ta, or wind horse, will carry the blessings to all beings.

The prayers become a permanent part of the universe as the images fade from exposure back to the elements. As old flags become faded, Tibetans traditionally hang new flags alongside the old, symbolizing a welcoming of life’s changes and an acknowledgement that all beings are part of a greater ongoing cycle.

Who knew there could be so much meaning and power in a small piece of fabric?!? It’s amazing.

February 25, 2012 - Bodhnath

Just a few kilometers from Pashupatinath is Bodhnath (also known as Boudha), an enormous Buddhist stupa that seems worlds away from the Kathmandu Valley.

Not only is the stupa breath-taking, but the area directly around the stupa is reserved only for pedestrians, so it’s a great way to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and relax for a while. There are some great rooftop cafes around the temple with unbeatable views.

This was the first place we went after the craziness of Pashupatinath to relax for a while before setting off to explore the enormous stupa.

The Buddhist stupa at Bodhnath is reported to be “perfectly proportional” and one of the most (if not the most) impressive stupas in all of Nepal. After walking through the entry area, it is easy to see why the stupa is so highly regarded. It is enormous, gorgeous, peaceful, and overall very impressive. Every part of the stupa has a specific religious significance, creating a three-dimensional representation of the important elements of Buddhist philosophy:

Plinth: The lower level of the stupa is a square or terraced plinth, which represents the earth. The four sides of the terraces represent the four states of mindfulness and the four immeasurables – love, compassion, joy, and equanimity.

Kumbha: Above the plinth is a hemispherical dome, representing an upturned pot of rice. The dome symbolizes water and is freshly whitewashed each year and decorated with a pattern of yellow paint to represent lotus petals.

Harmika: Above the dome is a square tower, symbolizing fire, usually painted on each side with the eyes of the Buddha.

Spire: Above the harmika is a tapering spire, representing the air. The thirteen levels of the tower represent the thirteen states that one must pass through to achieve nirvana.

Umbrella: At the very top of the stupa is a protective umbrella that symbolizes the void beyond space.

The base of the stupa is surrounded by hundreds of Buddhist prayer wheels, which are religiously turned in the clockwise direction by hundreds or thousands of pilgrims on a daily basis.

The stupa is also shrouded with many Tibetan prayer flags, which sway beautifully in the wind and make for a remarkable sight.

Surrounding the Bodhnath stupa are many Gompas, or Buddhist monasteries. We visited the Guru Lhakhang Gompa.

All of the walls and ceilings were meticulously painted with religious images. While there, I was blessed by one of the Buddhist monks. While I had no idea what I was supposed to be doing, he patiently guided me through the blessing. It was a really neat experience.

New Guinness World Record!

I'll keep you updated on this exciting story from Nepal as the details come in...

http://www.wfsb.com/story/16988510/2012/02/22/nepal-man-72-hoping-to-be-named-worlds-shortest

He did it!! New Guinness World Record for shortest person alive! http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2012/2/shortest-man-world-record-its-official!-chandra-bahadur-dangi-from-nepal-is-smallest-adult-of-all-time/

Some other Guinness World Records held in Nepal: http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2012/2/new-worlds-smallest-man-ten-other-incredible-world-records-from-nepal/

February 24, 2012 - Nepalese traffic

Before coming to Nepal, I thought that traffic in New York City and Boston was the worst. I also felt that drivers in Florida were the scariest. And, in my opinion, the highways of Michigan could use some repair. My impressions have changed drastically over the past few weeks in Nepal. New York City and Boston now seem like a “drive in the park.” Michigan highways now seem as smooth as a baby’s bottom. And Florida drivers seem idyllic. In other words, driving and traffic in Nepal is a terrifying, quite unpleasant experience.

My first driving experience in Nepal was on my way to the Guesthouse from the airport. While it was pitch black (load shedding period) and there were few other cars on the road, I could tell right away that traffic laws were not enforced (or abided) as stringently in Nepal as they are in the United States. This was confirmed the following morning on my walk to work, when I realized there was really just a (semi) organized chaos to driving the streets of Nepal. The following are distinct differences I have noticed between traffic/driving in Nepal and in the United States.

1. Everything. Enough said.

2. Lane markings. There are no lane markings on the streets differentiating traffic traveling in different directions. Traffic tends to stay on the left side of the road. Well, at least this is where they are supposed to be. However, if another car is traveling too slowly, cars take it upon themselves to pass other vehicles – in to oncoming traffic. It’s quite the adventure, especially when you are sitting in the front seat.

3. Parking areas. There are also no markings to differentiate areas designated for parking versus those areas designated for driving; therefore, the open road is a free-for-all when it comes to finding a place to park. This goes for one-lane roads, as well. This makes traveling on these roads quite difficult, especially when a large truck feels the need to “pull over” and park on a one-lane road to unload its enormous amount of cargo.

4. Utilization of the horn. Stating that Nepalis use their horns liberally is an understatement. They drive with one hand on the gear-shifter and another hand on the horn. The horn is used as a primary means of communication from one driver to the next. It is often times used to signal to the other drivers/motorbikes/bikers/pedestrians/other random things in the road, “Hey, I’m beside you. Watch out.” It can also mean “Drive faster,” “Please move over,” or, after all of the above-mentioned comments have failed, “Move it man! Get the f*** out of my way!” Although it is rather disturbing to my non-accustomed ears and makes walking on the roads quite unpleasant, it seems to work well for the drivers here.

5. Types of transportation on the roads. The roads are shared by a great deal of transportation – cars, trucks, busses, motorbikes, scooters, bicycles, rickshaws, electric buggies, pedestrians, dogs, and anything else you can think of. It makes for an interesting (and rather smelly and smoggy) potpourri.

6. Seatbelts. Seatbelts are not really used in Nepal. I have yet to find a working seatbelt in the backseat of a taxi. The interesting point here, however, is that a recent law was passed in Nepal that requires the driver of vehicles to wear a seatbelt. They can actually be ticketed if spotted not wearing their seatbelts; therefore, the taxi drivers keep one eye on traffic and the other eye out for police. If they spot a police officer, they do a quick swoop to the left side of the road, stop the car, put on their seatbelt, and dive back in to traffic.

7. Passenger restrictions. These don’t exist in Nepal, either. I have seen a family of five on a single motorbike – and this doesn’t include the infant swaddled and wrapped in the mother’s arms. People are often hanging off the side of the busses or out the doors if there are no more seats inside. And if that’s not even an option? You can always ride on the roof…

8. Pedestrian’s rights. These don’t exist in Nepal, either. It’s more like “vehicular rights.” If you are a pedestrian, you better watch out for all of the other vehicles on the road. If you want to cross the road and you are at a crosswalk, think carefully before stepping a toe out in the road with oncoming traffic. Crosswalks mean nothing. And the traffic is so crazy here that it is nearly impossible to cross the entire road at one time; therefore, you have to cross to the midway point, wait in the middle of the street as cars, motorbikes, and busses blare their horns and zoom on by, say a prayer that you won’t get hit by a stray vehicle, and finally cross to the safety of the other side of the road when cross-traffic has lightened.

9. Potholes. I never understood the true meaning of potholes until I came to Nepal. Our worst roads seem immaculate compared to most of the roads here in Nepal. Potholes are large enough to swallow cars whole. Very few roads are paved; and even those roads that were once paved are pocked with massive holes and are completely broken-down due to the massive monsoons that happen every year. There are often large parts of roads that have been previously washed-out by the monsoon rains and have only been filled in with small amount of rocks or dirt – which subsequently wash away with the next rain. The road to anywhere is very bumpy and jostling. If you are traveling further than 10-15 kilometers, you want to come prepared with a barf bag and Dramamine…

10. Stop signs or traffic lights. I can count the number of traffic lights I have seen in Nepal on a single hand. And I haven’t seen a single stop sign. So what does a vehicle do when it comes to a cross section? Why it’s simple, really. Just blare the horn and jut out in to oncoming traffic. They will usually stop…

February 23, 2012 - Bhaktapur

On my day off this week, and Katie and Phil’s last full day in Nepal, we ventured approximately ten kilometers east of Kathmandu to Bhaktapur. It is the third major city within the Kathmandu Valley, the others being Kathmandu and Patan. Bhaktapur is known as the “cultural capital of Nepal,” and with very good reason. It is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the city has been very well preserved throughout the years.

There are multiple entrances to the city, through which only pedestrians and motorbikes are permitted to pass. This allows the city to seem much more peaceful than crazy Patan or Kathmandu, where there are always loud cars, busses, and trucks pressing on their horns. The city is also very well maintained, with minimal trash on the roads and an overall much higher level of cleanliness than other cities within the Kathmandu Valley.

Bhaktapur is a great place to just wander around the narrow cobblestone streets aimlessly, taking in the old architecture and well-preserved heritage of the city.

There are many craft-makers at work, including amazing wood-working and pottery goods. Bhaktapur is known throughout the Valley as one of the premier locations to view and purchase hand-crafted woodwork. There is a famous window, known as the Peacock Window, located near one of the major squares in Bhaktapur; this is regarded as the finest carved window within the Kathmandu Valley. I can understand why. It’s quite impressive.

In addition to its woodwork, Bhaktapur is known for its works of pottery. In fact, that is an entire square (known, quite fittingly, as Potters Square) within the city that is dedicated solely to this craft. This area is full rows upon rows of clay pots drying in the sun.

You can even see the firing process near the back of the square, where the pottery is completed in make-shift kilns.

Bhaktapur has three distinct toles, or squares, all filled with gorgeous temples and shrines. One of these temples, the Nyatapola Temple, is five stories high and is the tallest temple in all of Nepal.

It is quite impressive, both due to its height and also the intricate details of the temple. The entrance to the temple is guarded on either side of the stairs by figures of power and strength, including elephants, lions, griffins, and goddesses.

There are many other sites to see – too many to describe them all. So I’ll just put the pictures below for you to enjoy.