February 9, 2012 - Nepalese food

My parents and I went to Bhojan Griha tonight, a restaurant in Kathmandu that serves organic, ethnic Nepali food. The restaurant is located in a recently restored 150 year old mansion, which is absolutely gorgeous.

Diners are entertained by traditional song and dance throughout dinner. The music and dancing was great, and the food was wonderful. I am stuffed.

It made me think about all of the wonderful foods that I have had during the past couple of weeks in Nepal. While there is no way I could possibly describe all of the food, I’ll highlight some of the “don’t miss” food items that I’ve had thus far:

Dal bhat tarkari: Literally interpreted, it means “lentil soup.” It is the staple of the Nepali diet, usually consumed at least twice daily. It consists of smashed lentils in a soupy mixture, which is then poured on top of rice. Many thakari restaurants serve different versions of a dal bhat tarkari, which includes dal bhat, as well as rice, curried vegetables, and various other sides (usually including some sort of achar, or pickles). The meal often also includes chapati or papad, which are unleavened Indian or lentil bread, respectively. It’s delicious. And the best part about it? The restaurants usually keep serving you until you can’t eat anymore. All for less than $3. What more could you ask for?!?!

Traditionally dal bhat tarkari is eaten by pouring the lentil soup on the rice, mixing it into balls with your fingers, adding a small amount of the pickle and vegetable, and shoveling the mixture into your mouth with your right hand. While this may be the “local way” of eating dal bhat, I figure that I already stand out pretty significantly as a foreigner, so I prefer to eat it the foreign way – with a fork. If you’re feeling daring, try eating it the local way; but don’t blame me if you make a huge mess!

Momos: Momos are steamed dumplings, filled with vegetables and (if you desire) some form of meat (either buffalo or chicken). I, obviously, prefer the vegetable version. I don’t really know how to describe them, except for little pockets of warm joy. So good!!

Samosas: While samosas are traditionally an Indian food, they are found everywhere in Nepal. Samosas are a potato and pea curry, wrapped in lentil dough, and fried. They are delicious, and an easy snack to buy and eat on the way somewhere.

Other Asian food: Pretty much all restaurants serve Chinese and Indian food, in additional to the usual Nepali fare. You can never go wrong with chow mein, fried rice, chana masala, or palak paneer. At our usual lunch place, they also serve roti, which is a thin dough cooked inside of a large clay oven. Yum.

Chiya: Although I came to Nepal insisting that I did not like tea, I think chiya has convinced me otherwise. Also known as masala chiya or simply masala tea, chiya is made by boiling tea leaves with milk, sugar, and various amounts of spices. It’s delicious. It’s the perfect way to warm yourself at the end of a meal or simply to sip and relax in the middle of the day. Patan hospital actually has delicious chiya, with a cup costing only five rupees (this is equivalent to about seven cents…).

Curd: I experienced curd for the first time tonight, and it was delicious. Essentially, it is a lemon-flavored milk curd, with a yogurt-like consistency. It’s sweet and a great way to end dinner. Apparently Bhaktapur is known for its jiji dhau, also known as “king of curds.” I haven’t made it to Bhaktapur yet, so I’ll have to report back after trying it. Can’t wait, though!