February 25, 2012 - Bodhnath

Just a few kilometers from Pashupatinath is Bodhnath (also known as Boudha), an enormous Buddhist stupa that seems worlds away from the Kathmandu Valley.

Not only is the stupa breath-taking, but the area directly around the stupa is reserved only for pedestrians, so it’s a great way to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and relax for a while. There are some great rooftop cafes around the temple with unbeatable views.

This was the first place we went after the craziness of Pashupatinath to relax for a while before setting off to explore the enormous stupa.

The Buddhist stupa at Bodhnath is reported to be “perfectly proportional” and one of the most (if not the most) impressive stupas in all of Nepal. After walking through the entry area, it is easy to see why the stupa is so highly regarded. It is enormous, gorgeous, peaceful, and overall very impressive. Every part of the stupa has a specific religious significance, creating a three-dimensional representation of the important elements of Buddhist philosophy:

Plinth: The lower level of the stupa is a square or terraced plinth, which represents the earth. The four sides of the terraces represent the four states of mindfulness and the four immeasurables – love, compassion, joy, and equanimity.

Kumbha: Above the plinth is a hemispherical dome, representing an upturned pot of rice. The dome symbolizes water and is freshly whitewashed each year and decorated with a pattern of yellow paint to represent lotus petals.

Harmika: Above the dome is a square tower, symbolizing fire, usually painted on each side with the eyes of the Buddha.

Spire: Above the harmika is a tapering spire, representing the air. The thirteen levels of the tower represent the thirteen states that one must pass through to achieve nirvana.

Umbrella: At the very top of the stupa is a protective umbrella that symbolizes the void beyond space.

The base of the stupa is surrounded by hundreds of Buddhist prayer wheels, which are religiously turned in the clockwise direction by hundreds or thousands of pilgrims on a daily basis.

The stupa is also shrouded with many Tibetan prayer flags, which sway beautifully in the wind and make for a remarkable sight.

Surrounding the Bodhnath stupa are many Gompas, or Buddhist monasteries. We visited the Guru Lhakhang Gompa.

All of the walls and ceilings were meticulously painted with religious images. While there, I was blessed by one of the Buddhist monks. While I had no idea what I was supposed to be doing, he patiently guided me through the blessing. It was a really neat experience.